Barcelona Companion

The city, from Gaudí to the sea

An independent companion to Barcelona — the Gaudí landmarks and Cerdà's modernisme grid, the old city and El Born, the hill of Montjuïc and the Barceloneta sand, the Catalan table, and the plain business of arriving and getting around. Walked and checked on the ground.

Gaudí & modernisme

Four entries
The spires of the Sagrada Família basilica in Barcelona Gaudí La Sagrada Família Gaudí's unfinished basilica — what to book ahead, when to go, and why it still isn't done. The mosaic serpentine bench and terrace at Park Güell Gaudí Park Güell The mosaic terrace, the free zone, and how not to pay for a view you can get for nothing. The undulating facade of Casa Batlló on Passeig de Gràcia Gaudí Casa Batlló & La Pedrera The two Gaudí houses on Passeig de Gràcia — which to pay for if you only do one. The octagonal blocks of Barcelona's Eixample district from above Modernisme The Eixample & modernisme Cerdà's grid, the Block of Discord, and the vermouth hour that holds it together.

The old city

Three entries
The neo-Gothic Pont del Bisbe bridge in Barcelona's Gothic Quarter Old city The Gothic Quarter The cathedral, the Roman bones, and lanes that aren't as medieval as they look. The basilica of Santa Maria del Mar in El Born, Barcelona Old city El Born & the Picasso Museum Santa Maria del Mar, the Born market, and the early Picasso most people skip. Stalls of fruit and produce at the Boqueria market off La Rambla Old city La Rambla & the Boqueria The famous strip, the famous market, the famous pickpockets — how to use all three.

Sea & hill

Three entries
The National Art Museum on Montjuïc hill in Barcelona Sea & hill Montjuïc The castle, the MNAC, the fountain and the gardens — a hill worth half a day. The city beach and waterfront at Barceloneta, Barcelona Sea & hill Barceloneta & the beaches The city sand, the seafood, and which beach to walk to for fewer crowds. The clock tower on Plaça de la Vila de Gràcia in Barcelona Sea & hill Gràcia The village in the city — squares, small bars, and a festa buried in paper flowers.

The table, the road, the airport

Four entries
A spread of Catalan tapas with pa amb tomàquet on a bar counter The table Catalan tapas & vermouth Pa amb tomàquet, bombes, the vermouth ritual, and where not to eat. The serrated peaks and monastery of Montserrat near Barcelona Day trips Day trips from Barcelona Montserrat, Sitges, Girona — and south to Salou and PortAventura on the Costa Daurada. Black-and-yellow Barcelona taxis on a city avenue Practical Getting around Barcelona The metro, the T-casual ticket, walking, and the trains out to the coast. A traveller in Barcelona El Prat terminal with a Vueling jet beyond the glass Practical Barcelona El Prat: into the city & onward BCN airport transfers — Aerobús, train, metro, taxi or pre-booked car — into Barcelona and down to Salou.